If the gentrification of Notting Hill brings with it lovely Dorian, then Miquita Oliver and her mum Andi won’t hear a word against itDorian, 105-107 Talbot Road, London W11 2AT (020 3089 9556; dorianrestaurant.com). Small plates £19-£65; large plates £37-£145; desserts £8.50-£12; wine from £50I’m going to tell you a story. This is a story about that which shall not be named. A word that is rarely dissected or discussed in polite society. Yes, occasionally it’s muttered casually – between close friends, in an Islington townhouse. You may even hear it whispered along the hallowed streets of London’s Broadway Market – if you’re lucky. But rarely do we take this beast apart. Not often is the brute hung, cut along its middle, for us to follow the grain of its connective tissues. Continue reading...